Block 1 of Yala has the world’s highest density of wild leopards per square kilometre. Pre-dawn private jeep entry, a dedicated specialist tracker and the full morning arc of the park – leopards, wild elephants, sloth bears, mugger crocodiles and coastal lagoon birdlife. A second optional afternoon drive for those who want to stay longer. None of it is guaranteed. That is the honest and correct description of what makes it compelling.